Posted By Joshua Keating Share

First George W. Bush tripled the duty on Roquefort cheese as a farewell gesture to France. Now the U.S. Department of Agriculture has doubled it for jamon iberico, a prized ham which comes with the leg bone still inside. What's more, the hams will have to be sold without a black hoof attached, their defining characteristic.

I won't pretend to understand why it's so important that the hoof be included, but apparently it's VERY important:

There was a scandal in Madrid 9 or 10 years ago when a company was caught painting the hooves on its white Serrano hams black in order to pass them off as the far more valuable Iberico Pata Negra. Apparently, some of the paint finally rubbed off on an unsuspecting shopper and there was public outrage.

The newspapers followed the story, chronicling the plight of the duped ham lovers and the evil doers who had sold them a faux Ibérico ham with a painted hoof. The government finally intervened, and the populace was calmed. Even today, you can spot the occasional ham shopper in Spain rubbing the hoof to make sure that its color is natural.

U.S. afficionados apparently paid up to $200 per ham and waited up to seven years for them to become available. Could this all be a massive government experiment to see how much Americans will pay for snooty European food products?

Financial tips aren't usually our thing here at Passport. But in today's wintry economic climate, stockpiling blood sausage, escargot, and Nutella is starting to seem like a sound strategy.

Photo: PHILIPPE DESMAZES/AFP/Getty Images

 

SDW

6:31 AM ET

February 13, 2009

The Facts Behind the Ham and Cheese

Josh:
This trade dispute has provided lots of fun headlines, but FP should get the facts right. This is supposed to be an in-the-know site, not a tabloid. So from the frontlines of the Roquefort defense, please note that the Spanish ham duty hike is not a new addition to the Roquefort struggle, but part and parcel of a Revised Trade Action in the Beef Hormone dispute. Products from 26 EU member states are included, so there will be lots of menu items to blog about as these duties come into effect. (We have already read articles and posts about fatty livers of ducks and geese, but not yet much about sparkling Italian water, oatmeal or frozen bovine tongues. ) For the full list see:
USTR Notice

The important and overlooked point in the press is that this dispute has been ongoing and is the result of the EU shutting its market to American beef for the last twenty years. While few American ranchers are likely to buy much foie gras, there are plenty of Europeans who would be customers for an American steak or burger. The latest list of goods included in the Trade Action is a modification of the duties that have been imposed for the last nine years, since retaliation was authorized by the WTO, but which have not yet brought a solution. This new list has gotten a lot of attention and maybe it will open up a negotiated solution. American farmers and ranchers deserve a fair shot at the European market and if getting to the negotiating table takes a WTO-legal ham and cheese blockade, well c'est la vie.

 

JONESML

11:31 AM ET

February 13, 2009

Evidence, please

One answer to question 1) in post number 2 is that the nations mentioned block access of U.S. agricultural products at least partly in order to add another layer of protection to their already heavily subsidized agricultural sector. Yes, I know we also protect and subsidize our own farmers.

I am inclined to think that another reason for EU resistance to "unnatural" agricultural products such as beef raised on growth hormones and various kinds of genetically-modified organisms is garden variety Ludditism. "Report after report . . . proving the harm" might sway me in another direction -- can you cite your sources?

 

DRLAKE

2:11 PM ET

February 13, 2009

Evidence would be good

I second the call for actual evidence. Not something ginned up by the agricultural department of a country like France, where protecting agriculture is national policy. I want to see a reputable scientific study showing that the use of hormones to increase meat production is harmful to humans. Claiming that studies have shown something to be true is a tried and true way to pretend that you have evidence without actually producing any.

Until we get to that, I find the notion that European consumers are agricultural Luddites the more convincing argument.

 

J RUBE

3:18 PM ET

February 13, 2009

You want evidence?

We are the fattest and most heart-disease prone country in the world (not to mention a whole host of other health issues that Americans excel at). What other evidence do you need that our culture of mass production and profit maximization — of which hormone-injected beef is one manifestation — is harmful. If you start injecting my food with substances with names like estradiol, progesterone, testosterone, melengesterol acetate, trenbolone acetate, and zeranol, you better prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that it is not harmful before I let it into my body.

 

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